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Surfer chicks


changeling
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  • 4 weeks later...

There's nothing that's not nice about surfing, especially that. Well except for shit waves, and crowds. And wearing wetsuits through winter.

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In a one wish granted scenario, if I had the opportunity to choose any sport/activity to excel at, I would instantly choose surfing, no matter the millions to be made playing other professional sports.

It looks unbelievably cool to these eyes!

 

Do you live anywhere near the beach? Within an hour? If so, try it tomorrow. I've dabbled in pretty much any and every sport, I'd guess, at one point in my life, and there's no doubt in the world that surfing is the most enjoyable extra curricular activity on the planet, outside of intercourse. Not a doubt in my mind, in fact.

 

In context, I'd assume that my presence on this site has suggested a pretty intense fondness for music, but give me the choice tomorrow that for the remainder of my life I live without music, or without surfing... well that's the last time I ever listen to a song. :)

 

Been a good winter here too. I still hate the cold and wetsuits, but by christ winter can turn on some great waves, and always favourable winds. It's the absolutely only good thing about winter.

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I bodyboarded for about 20 years of my life and it is indeed a lot of fun. I always thought I'd do it forever, side by side with surfing, but it didn't take long before I just completely stopped considering bodyboarding as an option anymore. Haha.

 

It is great, and I have a good mate of the same vintage as me who still bodyboards, but I think 99% of wave riders move onto surfboards and never look back. Fact is, there is 100% no doubt times when the surf is just much better for bodyboarding than it is for surfing, and vice versa. But it just doesn't matter anymore after a while and you just take the surfboard out no matter what... mostly because I just stopped ever having the bodyboard around anymore.

 

I just hate the whole wetsuit situation. I actually cannot stand seeing people out in the water in the middle of summer over here with a wetsuit on. It makes me want to vomit for bringing that level on uncomfort onto yourself so unnecessarily. Nothing nicer in the world than sitting out there in the middle of summer in a pair of shorts around sunrise without a chill in the world. I just love it.

 

I surfed a few times on my recent vacation, on the south coast of Lombok. I was in the water 45mins (!!) before sunrise a few days. The water is so warm there I was basically sweating in the water, even at this hour, no joke. But because it was a full moon at the time I had plenty of light even at that time of day. And because it was all reef breaks down there there was no hint of concern about sharks either. Ahhh, memories... :(

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Sounds great. Problem in the UK is all the surfable beaches are in the east which is circa 300 miles away so never had the time or the ease of access to ever learn how to surf.

 

Body boarding is easy.

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